RealDash Pi Car Setup

This is for the community who might ask how to get a tablet setup in their car.

Before I used to run a seperate android tablet that sat infront of my cluster. I’ve used both the Samsung Galaxy Tab A7 Lite 8.7" and also the Samsung Galaxy Tab S4 10.5".

Both worked fine, no issues with the app. I decided to look into non tablet setups due to the issue of heat and battery expanding. I live in SoCal desert area and my Tab A7 did start to expand in heat.

If the car is mostly garaged, like when I ran my S4 tablet, I did NOT have that issue.

Now, onto connections. I have not worked with canbus or hardwire options so don’t ask me directly for that. Hardwire I believe “theonegauge” can help you with that. From what I remember they tap into the wire behind the clusters, read the voltage and from the you tell which is which depending on the voltage change. Yes they have their own prebuilt clusters but that I believe does not use realdash. Just dropping their name, you’d have to contact them to discuss more their product.

Now, back to something new.

I have found a way to run a Raspberry Pi 5 in my car.

It is running an android verison.

Please follow the instructions there if you want to install it. It’s clear enough in my opinion. Do remeber that after install gapps to wife AND factory reset. I say this becuase without doing this you can NOT get google asisst to speak for you. This is very important if you use the action “Speak Text”.

Here is the raspberry Pi i bought, no I didnt’ use the case:

This is the fan I used. Yes you need a fan. It worked perfectly thorughtout winter/spring. But after temps of 80°F outside, it would shut down on me. Once I installed a fan that issue went away:

Here is the screen, I do run the 10.1" but it’s slightly too big for my dash. I can’t see the whole screen, so their 7" might be a better chose for most.

So why no case?

I don’t believe the case works if you mount it behind the screen, which I do have that setup. That and if you plan to add an SSD or more, I don’t believe that case would work.

Doesn’t the Pi product also come with a fan?

Yes the product does include it’s own fan, but I removed it after installing it by accident. Also couldn’t reinstall due to having to cut the clips to remove it. The one listed comes with screws, a lot friendlier to uninstall and replace imo.

From that screen, again the Pi is mounted behind it. I don’t use the legs of the screen.

You do need the usb to pin for touch.

Yes the screen will turn on with that, BUT it had power issues with RealDash. Whenever speak text would want to work, aka using speakers, the screeen would go black during the time sequence of spoken text. They do provide the 3 GPIO cable to power the scren, installing that would fix the isuse. I did not have any real screen issues NOT running the cable without speaker useage.

Ribbon hdmi cable does work, but their ribbon cable was kind of shitty with me moving it around. Yes i still move my dash around daily and the new cable doesnt give issue.

This ribbon replacement has been working for me BUT i could not do mini hdmi to ribbon. I had to do mini hdmi to hdmi and start using the HDMI port on the side.

Now, does the Raspberry Pi stay on the whole time?

Yes it does.

Does the screen stay on the whole time?

No it doesn’t. I power it off manually to save power.

Do the speakers work?

Yes they work perfectly but again, install gapps correctly for speak text and also make sure to use the 3 pin GPIO to avoid issues with power and the screen.

Does it kill my car battery?

Yes and no. During spring I’ve had no issues. Maybe if i left the car parked for more then 3/4 days I might have that issue of battery drainage. I did start to have issues during summer. The 2 variable changes are: I installed the fan AND technically I got a bad battery I need to replace. So once I replace the battery I’ll get back to you on that. Early summer I didn’t have any battery dying issues, so I suspect it’s mostly my battery.

My driving habbits are 4+ hours of driving for 5-6 days a week.

The device itself runs smoothly if everything is installed correctly.

Now biggeest part, how do i power it? I know this has been asked in other forums and no answers asidr from using a PSD usb outlet. I went a different route.

I used this device, which is no longer listed but you can find similar devices. Main reason, is that the raspberry pi needs to run 5V and 3A minimum. This device does 5V 5A which is no harm especially as you plan to run the display and in the future possibly other equipment as cellular, gps, etc.

Once this was installed I’ve had great powering. I used a fuse tap on the red side and just grounded the black as it was.

A product similar to this. I had a few around home and I did not solder them, I wire crimped it. I use a 5A fuse btw. You can either tap into a hot fuse, one that is always on for the car. Or tap into a cold? fuse, one that turns off when the keys turn off. I do not know how well the boot time is. Nothing crazy but definetely not take off friendly. Also I don’t know if the sudden cut to power would affect the sd card of the Pi.

So the whole setup i give an S+ me personally. It works great, sound and speak text works. It’s exactly like my tablet just no battery.

What issues do I have?

Currently only 2 known.

First, if you restart or cold start the device. Boot times aside, I noticed that the app will constantly crash. No, I haven’t figure out why. @realdashdev I don’t know if you guys want to invest time into this setup to find out. I just noticed that if i cut power compeletely and hard restart the device the app will open and then close eventually. It’ll do so a lot early on but as time goes by, the time between the app randomly closing gets larger like hours apart. I don’t believe memory issue as I’ve used 4 gb of ram before. Nor do I think its directly an app issue as on my tablets I never experieced this. Maybe its something faulty with this android version, but I don’t have the experiece to try and figure it out. I don’t believ power issue as the device never turns off the screen or anthing else. The app just closes on its own and you have to wait a few seconds to reopen it. If you attempt to reopen it too fast the app won’t open.

Second, no map data. Now, I admit I have no GPS module for the raspberry PI. Nor do I remember if my preivous attempts worked, by this i mean previous installations of the android system as I’ve clean installed a few good times to get this working to this point. Currently the device on RealDash is stuck in Europe? and does not change. This means GPS functions are essentially disabled. Sorry, no weather, GPS speeed, etc. I am confused by this, as the device is connected to internet when driving. I use a mobile hotspot. If i open Google Maps and have it check my location, it does take a few seconds but will give me my exact location. With that said, I don’t know why RealDash isn’t pulling my location via internet. This one I think @realdashdev can solve easily hopefully.

So that’s it so far. Maybe tomorrow after work I can get pictures of how the pi is setup so you can see what cables i use and how they are installed if you plan to use the same screen setup.

This is one of the OBD2 devices I use in my cars. Works perfectly fine. Heads up though, not all cars read data the same speed. My accord which ran from 2003 - 2007 had a noticeble 1-2 second lag on gauge readings. So definetely can’t use an OBD2 setup in that car. But switching the device to my 2006 - 2011 civic or my 2008 - 2014 tsx I had no lag issues and it works fine. I believe this comes down to what hardware they used for the ECU. So I recomend checking when you car’s generation starts, and preferably having the start year be after 2006.

I believe this should’ve covered everything. I will try to be active again. I do plan to redo my dash design tutorial and go a bit deeper into that one. That will take time and is not a one day to other post.

Hardware wise, I hopes this helps the community out. If anyone is on the android forum for pi, let them know about this as the step down converter was a huge game of chance as I haven’t seen any other posts talk about using one. I mostly seen using a PD outlet and PD cable to run PI but again I didn’t want to do that. I don’t like visible outlets, that’s jsut me.

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In case someone needed, I came to a pretty similar solution by myself, got almost the same components as OP, but want to add a few alternatives/ideas, instead of the buck converter OP used, I used this, that is also 5V 5A but has a USB C output, easier to connect and disconnect on my tests:

And got this USB cable (that also supports 5A load) to connect the raspberry:

To prevent battery draining, I installed this relay previous to the buck converter:

I use the ACC signal as a trigger for the relay, but also connected that ACC signal to raspberry’s PIN 17 (with an 10k ohm resistor), then did a python script that monitors the ignition key signal, this is what I do:

  • When the key turns on, the relay gets signal and turns on the raspberry
  • Realdash runs as a service to autostart on boot, along with a service that runs the python script
  • The python script monitors for the accessory signal every 5 seconds, if the signal is lost, the script calls the raspberry shutdown command, but the relay still has power (I set a 15 seconds timer on the relay), after the shutdown sequence finishes, it still have power for a couple of seconds to prevent a suddenly power loss, when the countdown finishes (and the Raspberry is off), the power is cut and it doesn’t drains current anymore

At first I got connected via Bluetooth also, but I found a better stability with a USB cable (no drivers needed, just needed to configure the protocol on Realdash)

@alekzvargas oh the converter I used does output in USB C, I might have to get an extension cable though as it’s short.

I need to update my post later today as I made 2 changes that have fixed 2 issues.

Edit: yours is definitely a more complex setup compared to mine. Not in a bad way. Just you have to know how to script etc. it’s definitely good if the car doesn’t drive a lot since it shuts down the PI.

Id consider mine beginners. The most complex part of mine is flashing android and then doing gapps and resizing.

Do you have any boot issues? Or I guess how long does it take to boot?

I have mine always on to prevent boot lag. But when it hits it’s like 15 sec max? Never really counted. Not that long but long enough that you wouldn’t be able to get in and start driving.

It takes about 10-12 to have Realdash ready (and it takes around 8-10 seconds to shut off), compared to modern cars with digital clusters, is not that bad, but taking in consideration that, for now, I’m booting via SD card, boot times can be improved, eventually I’ll replace the SD card for a NVME SSD to compare boot times, just for curiosity, but I don’t see that time as a problem since after turn the engine on I wait around half a minute to drive, to give time to the oil pump for having a proper pressure, not that it would be a problem to start driving in the meantime either.

Forgot to mention, I’m using linux, maybe you and I are seeing different boot times

No I totally get you I wait some too. I guess it’s more for situations when you got an emergency and have to take off or the car has already been driving and is still warmed up. Like getting gas or getting groceries vs overnight.

But yeah I use nvme now which I’ma post in a few hours about.

And I don’t use Linux. My approach was android which I’m more familiar with and I’m assuming the community is too.

That’s why I considered it entry level setup as it’s permanently on and it’s on Android system so not much you can edit or do custom with as you use Linux which allows you to do scripts.

About the example you gave of getting gas and the pi needs to shut off and on again, I have it sorted out, my script has a condition for that, didn’t explained before to no overcomplicate things haha but, if the car is turned off, I added a counter on the script, it reads the signal every 5 seconds as I mentioned, but if the counter is lower than 6 (half a minute to test, but I can set any number I want), the dash doesn’t call the shutdown process, it just adds +1 to the counter, when the counter reaches the number I set a as parameter (in this case 6), now its time to shutdown, if the car is turned on again in that period of time, the counter resets to 0 and continues monitoring the signal each 5 secs, I know for some users it could be a pretty complicated approach, but I thing it can be used as an example/ideas for people that wants to work with realdash and like this kind of projects, or wants to start with basic developing, thinking on that, I’d like to explain what I’ve done so far

I have configured this dash 3 different times:
The first one was with android and a raspberry 4 borrowed from a cousin, but boot times were so high in that scenario, I was able to open the app automatically at boot configuring as a kiosk app, but didn’t know how to implement the GPIO pins usage and/or turn it on and off via usb signal, I’m not an android developer, and even that my cousin is, he recommended me that, if I’m not familiar developing for android, and boot times were too high, maybe it would be faster to get it done if we switched to linux and continue testing the functionality I wanted there, since linux it’s a lighter OS and I already had experience developing python scripts, so, we build the second version

For the second version we installed linux on the same Pi 4, and programming there was no issue, it had a little bit of lag via Bluetooth, maybe some configuration?, but that’s where I switched to the OBD2>USB cable instead, and it fixed the lag, when I tried to buy my own Pi in order for me to give his back, I read the Pi 5 has a more powerful processor, also I could buy the 8 ram version and add other stuff to it too (I’m planning to do tests trying to use it as a multimedia headunit, put android auto on it and send signal directly to my amplifiers), so I bought the Pi 5

For the third version it was the Pi 5 and still linux, the library I used for python on the Pi 4 is not compatible with Pi 5, since they use a different architecture, so I needed to modified the script in order for it to work as expected, but no big deal

The following step for me is going to be switch from the SD card to the NVME, but it’s just cloning my current environment, so shouldn’t be a problem, and then try the headunit thing

Yeah yours is definitely not beginning friendly lol not in a bad way. Eventually I will most likely switch. I’ve flashed android before and no issues there. It took a min to find a custom android for raspberry pi 5 but I did as mentioned in the post.

Since my latest upgrade I really love it. I need to make that post today as I got caught up yesterday.

So far powering down is 10 seconds I think. Going off the light in the back turning red.

I just restarted it and that took 40 seconds. Powering on is that long though.

The android developer make it possible to add some extra parts and has some recommendations he’s used for testing.

I am now on nvme SSD, no issues. Prior was SD which gave issues with apps staying open.

Setup is straightforward if someone doesn’t know Linux or scripting.

If you are planning going with linux, it’s easy to install it too, you just need to download the raspberry pi imager app, select the OS you want (or an image with the environment already configured) the hardware you want to configure (Pi 5) and the imager installs the OS on the device you choose and gets everything ready, to install realdash you’d need to use the console, but is not that difficult, a few simple sentences and it’s done, you could try first on a SD, so you don’t lose your current environment, if it doesn’t work as expected, you could boot your android NVME again, if it works, you can clone the SD installation into the NVME.

Do you have the scripts that you used., I’m having issues with hard power down corrupting my drives. I need a better way of turning the device on and off.

Are you running pi4 or pi5? I have used different sentences on each one, since they have slight differences on how to monitor the signal on pin 17 using different libraries, however, the sentence I’m using to turn off on both is the following os.system("sudo shutdown -h now")
I have the scripts on my personal pc at home, can send it to you later, just let me know which one do you need

im on a Pi 5 running Raspbian