Im using a Windows 10 micro PC to run RD on a 13 inch screen in my dash. Randomly, and wirhout warning, RD will tell me that I dont have access to my premium dashes, and resets basically everything - including loading a default dash. I have to log in to the internet, sign in on RD, reload all my stuff.
RD does not do this if I am always hooked up to the internet… but in my situation, it isnt always possible. This current situation makes RD unuseable as a result.
Is there a workaround, or am I forced to deal with RD resetting itself because it cant verify that I am allowed to use a program I purchased?
RealDash does cache the purchase information, and I have never encountered a situation that you describe. That being said, it is completely possible that Microsoft Store API will ‘eventually’ report that there is no purchases, never got that to happen, but I’m very rarely offline especially on Windows.
But, as you said ‘resets basically everything’. If all settings are lost, so are the cached purchase information. That sounds like you are not shutting down your computer properly and filesystem detects partial writes and deletes the files.
You are correct - the pc I am using to run RealDash is wired to accessory key power in my car, and turns off (without proper shutdown) when I turn the car off. I have Windows 10 set to quit reporting consecutive improper shutdowns, so that it never goes into recovery mode. I also set the bios to resume power on power off. This way, I can power up realdash and power down the pc with key on/key off actions, and it works… except the above stated issue. OBDII to USB via VLinker device; works flawlessly with RD. Surprisingly responsive.
Im curious, do you think there is a workaround to the improper shutdown/cache scenario?
There is no ‘easy’ workaround for this. You either have to configure your computer to be always on and use some sort of hibernation etc. feature, or have a shutdown signal to allow computer to shutdown properly.
This is a problem that I have not encountered a perfect solution yet.
I am not sure what your power supply requirements are, but either of these should solve your problem and shut down Windows properly. Only difference in the two is the output current. They are programmable to supply the proper voltage you need for your mini pc. Also timing of shutdown signals is programmable.
Curious what steps you have taken to shorten boot time? I am using and ACE Magician N95 ADO3 with 16GB of ram and a 128GB SSD. Boot times are reasonable but could be better.
I am using an HP g3 800 mini PC that I installed an i7-7700T in, plus a 500gb nvme drive and 16gb of ram on Windows 10. I have stripped the OS of any services not related to bare-bones functions, and can usually boot in about 30 seconds or less from cold start. At the moment, I am using the windows version of RD, but considering that Win 11 has native android support, I thought about experimenting with the Android version of RD in win 11 to see if I can get faster boot times. my issue seems toi be the fact that I am trying to use my system as an ‘all-in’one’ infotainment center, with a secondary monitor where my stereo would go; this necessitates that I command other programs to start on boot as well (audio programs and such), slowing down my boot times.
30 seconds is fine for me; I always let my rpms go down before I take off anyway, so this is certainly enough time for me.
Both options as presented by you look satisfactory - but how would I use or program something like that? It looks perfect for my needs!
I would recommend the DCDC-USB-200. That thing is power hungry.
Implementation is simple dip switch setup and configuration. That is where you configure voltage out setting and your timing configuration. I would recommend using Automotive timing settings. Usually something like power off 30 mins with hard off at 1 minute after that. You have main unswitched power input, ignition on power input, Power output to pc and a connection to the mother board where the pc power switch connected. There is a USB connection to the PC if you choose to go that way. The software allows for soft configuration of the settings rather than dipswitch. I chose not to in case the configuration parameters become corrupt.
The reason I choose 30 min off with 1 minute hard off, is so I can stop at the store or get gas and don’t have to wait for boot up each time I stop. The power consumption for such a short time is small so battery drain is minimal without engine running.
We have not discussed what you are using for a monitor and how you are powering it. If it follows windows shut down it never does a hard shutdown. It only enters a sleep like mode but still drawing a small amount of energy from the battery. We need to stop that battery drain as well.
I am using a 12v converter hard-wired to key acc on; my PC and my monitor are hooked up to this, so that my monitor shuts down when my PC does, too. The monitor is a 13.3 inch portable, powered by 5v USB-C.
Would I hook up the 12v converter to the DCDC-USB-200, then?
Well that simplifies things. Ok you don’t need the converter. You will need a Constant On and that Key ACC On for the DC DC USB 200. Power the portable monitor from a USB C port on the PC. Make sure in the settings on the PC that the USB C port does not stay powered after shutdown. If you need more USB C ports get yourself a USB C non powered hub.
The DCDC USB 200 does the same thing the convertor does but it does use KEY ON signals to orderly shutdown the PC rather than just killing the power. Trust me doing HARD OFFs like that will only lead to heartache and disappointment when files end up corrupted.
That is so good to know! And yes, heartaches so far because of corrupted files.
I do have non-powered (after shutdown) USB port to use.
I’m ordering a DCDC USB 200 today. sounds like it will solve every single one of my issues.
You may want to order the enclosure with it as well.
@realdashdev sorry for hijacking the thread. I saw where this was headed so thought I would offer a working solution for @GuitarHero79 and others in the future.
… I can bypass the monitor issue, because I have two 12v to 5v step-down converters (terminating in USB) installed for dash cam and other accessories - one with a constant volatage w/ a push-button switch, and one on KEY ON/OFF without a separate switch. I think that if I put my monitor on the KEY ON USB step-down, that it may look more ‘professional’, as in the monitor will shut off instantly upon KEY OFF, so that I don’t have to watch windows shut down; it gives the ‘appearance’ of instant on/off without actually being so, AND allows Windows to shut down properly.
I had never heard of these converters before; anyone else reading and interested, check out the linked video, it explains exactly what it does, how and why, and goes over most of the installation for automotive purposes:
DCDC USB 200 test/explanation
I know this is late on the thread and hopes this helps someone.
To handle shutting down my windows computer properly I added a relay timer to the power converter. So when the car shuts down the really timer cuts power 30 seconds after . Which gives the computer plenty of time to shutdown properly.
Where and how to I get/make one of these?
[2 Pack] DC 6-30V Timer Relay Programmable Delay Relay Module Cycle Timer with LED Display / 5V Micro USB, Smart Home Controller https://a.co/d/amC9pM2
I have this hooked up to my main relay that is in between my battery and my inverter.
While the timer relay will work, it requires user to manually shutdown windows everytime.
The solution I offered requires no user intervention and is seamless OEM like.
I looked up the item @chris070121 suggested, and it does seem as if it requires user intervention.
Oh I’m sorry everyone… my suggestion was only for the power side of shutting down. As for taking out user intervention,
The programs running on my computer are listening to the rpms on the can bus… So when RPM is 0, the computer automatically shuts down.
Ok, that is a new and interesting wrinkle…
How are you doing that? At the very least, I am interested in learning so I can decide which method to use.